Skelett-Kleid von Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli war – neben ihrer Rivalin Coco Chanel – eine der großen Modeschöpferinnen in der Zeit zwischen den Weltkriegen. Insbesondere ihre “Circus Collection” in Zusammenarbeit mit Salvador Dali aus dem Jahr 1938 sorgte für viel Aufsehen in der Modeszene.

Ein Kleid der Kollektion erntete dabei besonders viel Kritik: Das Skelett-Kleid (welches mich sehr an Alien erinnert).

To many contemporaries the sinister black skeleton evening dress with its padded representations of human bones was an outrage – an offence against good taste. Although otherwise in elegant harmony with the prevailing lines of late 1930s evening wear, the skeleton dress is so constricted that it became a second skin and the imitation anatomy sat defiantly proud of the fine matt silk surface. Schiaparelli exaggerated the usually delicate trapunto quilting technique to make enormous ‘bones’ – the design was stitched in outline through two layers of fabric, then cotton wadding inserted through the back to bring the design into relief on the front. The shoulder seams and right side are closed by bold plastic zips.

Victoria and Albert Museum

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